Malji Ka Kamra- a peek into Churu’s unexplored beauty

January 6, 2014
2,128 Comments

Desert sand dunes, speaking
havelis, cheerful people and authentic Rajasthani dance. Churu spells
exuberance in the very heart of Rajasthan. The much abandoned child of the
desert, this quaint town marvels with the historic tale that captivates
tourists the moment they step in.
The town is literally a living mural that has
expressed itself on the walls of the havelis (mansions) of the rich trading
classes. Mystery unfolds its classic epilogue as each haveli has a tale to
tell.

A district town with a population
of about 1,00,000, Churu is surrounded by sandy desert and boasts
temperatures ranging from below freezing at dawn in winter to 50°C in the heat
of summer.
The lush green lawns from Malji ka Kamra’s balcony

Although Churu is easily
approachable by road, the journey is less tiring by train. Boarding a train
from Delhi gives the much pleasurable journey as the train takes you through
magnificent green paddy fields and the majestic mountains. The DEL-BKN SF EXP departs
daily from 11:50 and arrives at 04:10 taking approximately 4.5 hrs from Delhi.
Tourists who love road journeys can take the route from Gurgaon – Rewari –
Narnaul – Singhana – Chirawa – Jhunjhunu– Churu.

As the train chugs its way to the
platform of Churu, the vibrant colors and aroma evoke my senses. Flanked by my
host, I am ushered towards my awaited destination, Malji ka Kamra, a historic
splendor built in 1920 that is maintained by Deepak Balan, the owner. Aged for
about a century, this Marwari haveli has a history of serving the visiting
dignitaries to Churu. The moment I caught attention of the vibrant haveli, I
was spellbound with the architecture and colors that gave life to it.  The
spectacular masterpiece is an amalgamation of European architecture and
Shekhawati style fresco paintings.
Delectable dishes served with hospitality at the Haveli

The lavish spread of greenery
looks beautiful as we walk towards the convivial haveli. Warm welcome by the
courteous staff brush aside the dust gathered from the journey. The rooms of
the Malji ka Kamra are dressed appropriately combining the modern facilities
while keeping the heritage values intact. Each room of the haveli is tastefully
decorated restoring the 20th century charm with masterpieces of the
ancient era.

As I freshen up after a quick
shower, a warm Rajashtani meal awaits me. The delectable fare has warm
vegetables and lentils served with hot rotis and rice.
Havelis with small Jharokhas speaking tales about the city

A walk in the streets of Churu is
what my heart longed for! And we set off to measure the grandeur city with its
majestic havelis at each turning corner. Churu indeed makes you introspect the
by-gone era with the aesthetic masterpieces on each haveli. The small windows
and jharokha of each haveli depict the privacy the women had in those days. The
high ceilings, gigantic main doors, huge rooms all reflect the opulent
lifestyle of the rich Marwari trader families. Each haveli had small staircase that were dark and
claustrophobic leading to huge terraces. While the climb to the terraces were a
task, the breathtaking view was worth it. The mesmerizing view of the dark blue
sky with pigeons in the air murmurs the classic tale of this beautiful city.

The haveli which caught my eye
was the Banthia Haveli. Dating
from the early 20th century painted haveli it has some very exquisite pictures
of Jesus smoking a cigar and a Scotsman riding his motorbike. Owned by
Jain merchants, this haveli is unfortunately not maintained well. The other
havelis were the Poddar Haveli and the Mantri Marg haveli.
Sethani ka Johra

It was time to be whisked off for
a high-tea at a surprise location. Deepak and his staff made special
arrangements to make the tea drinking experience an unforgettable one.

We reached a place called the Sethani
ka Johraa; a reservoir that was constructed by the widow of Bhagwan Das Bagla
during the Chhapan Akaal, the terrible famine of 1899 AD. Served as one of the
relief projects, this historic site was a few kilometers on the western side of
the Ratangarh Road.  Known for exotic birds and mammals like the Nilgai or
blue bull near the huge water body, this unexplored place was just the place I
was looking for. A lavish tea session under the chhatris made it all look enchanting and intriguing.
Warm comfortable beds in one of the rooms

The surprise never ended. The
crew of Malji made sure we were satiated to the last drop. Later, the jeep took
us to the sand dunes with a desert bornfire. The beautiful site under a
gigantic umbrella of stars was very alluring. Lucky for us, we could witness
the meteor shower that night. Succulent kababs offered by the hospitable
servers of Malji made the desert bornfire experience a memorable one.

The excitement and fun had to end
and soon we were ushered to the haveli. Warm, soft beds at Malji ka Kamra was
just the thing I needed after an exciting day and night at Churu.
Prem sarovar – The venue for our royal lunch

The next morning included the
tour of Ramgarh city. Barely 20 minutes drive from Churu, it takes travelers
through majestic sand dunes, camels, exotic birds flying and the Rajasthani
fervor. A brief tour around the lanes of the city gave us an awesome view of
shani-dev temple along with some more havelis. The next stop was lunch at Prem
Sarovar, another Johraa. The team of Malji made sure that everything was taken
care of. The backdrop of the lake reflected the blue sky while the sun shone at
its brightest.

The tour was yet to conclude on
an enchanting note. We were taken to skilled craftsmen who represented their
ancestral wealth of showcasing their talents through handicrafts. Mr. Malchand
Jangid, a renowned craftsman settled with his family crafts the most discerning
sandalwood decorative pieces that reflect beauty and charm. A family legacy of
acquiring maximum awards, the humble craftsman earns a meager amount by
showcasing art pieces to the world.
Pigeons flying with full glee in the town of Churu

We were lucky to be showcased yet
another skilled craftsman. The lac bangle maker settled in his small shop makes
the most exotic bangles that look beautiful. Enchanting in design and easy to
handle, these lac bangles are affordable and accentuate any attire.

That was the last stop which
brought us to the end of the majestic tour of the city. The Malji Haveli with
its
spell bounding sculptures in the city of Churu has left an everlasting
impression on my mind. I take back memories of a grandeur celebration of the
by-gone era reminiscent of a past that evokes mystery.

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